How To Choose CD/DVD Archival Media

(Last updated January 11th 2013)

Translations: Serbo-Croatian by Jovana Milutinovich

Ahh, I’ve been planning to write this one for awhile: an entire article on archival quality media. As I do professional software development as well as professional photography (what a weird combination), I need archival quality CD and DVD media to store my data on.

However, one of the hardest things to is actually find good media, or even understand why it is good media. This article focuses on the history of Compact Discs, writable CD/DVD media, and why DVD+R is superior to DVD-R. If you want to just know what media is worth buying, skip to the summary at the bottom.

Short history of the Compact Disc
The invention of the Compact Disc has had a large impact on both music and computing in the last 20 years. Invented in 1979 as a joint project between Sony and Philips to counter the self-destructive nature of consumer audio playback (such as tapes and records that could only be played so many times before the recording degraded significantly) by switching to a resilient digital format.

The CD was also designed to store standard computer data, as in 1985 the first CD drives for computers were released; massive, bulky, and expensive, it was not until the mid-90s that they really took off, driven almost solely by video games and large multimedia applications.

In 1990, Sony and Philips went back to the drawing table, and then came out with the CD-R, a record-once medium. Yet again, the first CD burners were large, expensive, and bulky, but by the late 90s having a CD burner was the new ‘in’.

The first few generations of CD media, designed by Taiyo Yuden (a company who I respect, and buy all my archival quality media from), actually kind of sucked; it wasn’t until around 2000 that companies started producing very high end media.

CDs and DVDs store individual bits (encoded in various ways depending on the media) with spots of reflective and non-reflective areas. This method is called ‘pits and lands’, where pits ‘absorb’ light (ie, are ‘off’ bits) and lands ‘reflect’ light (ie, are ‘on’ bits).

With pressed media, the pressing method causes pits to reflect the laser’s light away from the sensor, and the lands to reflect it back at the sensor. With burned media, a high energy laser causes spots of organic dye to go opaque and obscure the reflective surface for the pits, leaving the organic dye for lands alone.

Short history of the DVD
While burning was becoming popular in the late 90s, so was playing high quality video on DVDs. Storing almost 7 times the data of a 700MB CD (or almost 13 in the case of dual layer DVDs), allowed companies to store massive amounts of data on one disc, leading to the movie industry to drop VHS tapes and the video game industry to drop CDs.

In 1995, the first DVD specification was ratified by over a dozen companies including Sony and Philips, as well as Thompson, Pioneer, and Mitsubishi. By 2000, at least half the homes in the US and Japan had DVD players.

So, obviously, the next step was to produce burnable DVDs. Two separate, and incompatible, efforts took hold. The first one, Pioneer’s DVD-R (pronounced ‘DVD dash R’) was released in 1997, using different data storage methods than pressed DVDs (appearing to be more like CD-R than DVD), a poor error correction scheme, and the ‘wobble’ laser tracking system of DVD-R is inadequate for the job.

The second effort, lead by the DVD+RW Alliance (headed by Sony, Philips, Mitsubishi, and Thompson) was released in 2002, as an alternative to the poorly implemented DVD-R. DVD+R uses a superior ‘wobble’ laser tracking system, a far better error correction method, and the media quality itself is typically higher. (See the ‘Why DVD+R?’ section below for a more technical explanation)

Why archival media is hard to produce
Unlike pressed CDs/DVDs, ‘burnt’ CDs/DVDs can eventually ‘fade’, due to five things that effect the quality of CD media: Sealing method, reflective layer, organic dye makeup, where it was manufactured, and your storage practices (please keep all media out of direct sunlight, in a nice cool dry dark place, in acid-free plastic containers; this will triple the lifetime of any media).

The silver and aluminum alloys used in virtually all blank CD/DVD media has one major issue, requiring the manufacturer to lacquer a protective seal over the entire disc: silver and aluminum oxidize when they hit air, turning the normally reflective layer into silver or aluminum rust. Some (very expensive) media uses gold instead which doesn’t oxidize, however DVD media cannot use gold due to design issues (not true anymore, see update 1 below). Today, only the cheapest of the cheap media has severe issues with sealing practices (as such, avoid any media made outside of Japan and Taiwan; especially avoid media made in India).

Assuming that the protective seal and reflective layer are manufactured correctly, the next issue is the organic dye. The first organic dyes, designed by Taiyo Yuden, were Cyanine-based and, under normal conditions, had a shelf life of around ten years; simply, that was simply unacceptable for archive discs. Taiyo Yuden, Mitsubishi Chemicals, Mitsui Co., and Ciba Specialty Chemicals spent the next ten years trying to produce the best organic dyes, eventually reaching archive-quality CD media.

Taiyo Yuden produced ‘Super Cyanine’, a chemically stabilized version of the original Cyanine dye designs, while TDK offers media that uses ‘metal-stabilized Cyanine’ dye, leading to similar shelf lives as Taiyo Yuden’s media. Taiyo Yuden states their Super Cyanine dye is chemically stable for at least 70 years, and TDK states their metal-stabilized Cyanine is also stable for 70 years.

On the other hand, Mitsubishi went in a different direction and produced what is called a Metal Azo dye, that they claim is stable for around 100 years. Azo dyes are chemically stable, however, the shelf life of media using Azo dyes typically does not exceed that of Super Cyanine and metal-stabilized Cyanine.

The third dye produced for CD media is called Phthalocyanine dye, with the majority of such dyes produced by Mitsui and Ciba. Typically marketed as more resistant to heat and UV radiation than Cyanine and Azo, modern Cyanine and Azo dyes last just as long in extreme conditions.

DVDs also use similar dyes, however manufacturers have intentionally kept what dyes they use a secret (instead of a feature in their marketing of the media), and all blank DVDs are intentionally the same color (as different dyes on CDs make blanks different colors, however, it is not indicative of what dye is used due to some manufacturers using different colored silver alloys and non-reactive additives in the dye).

Why Taiyo Yuden media, and how to buy in the US
The best discs in circulation tend to be Taiyo Yuden media. In Japan, you find their media under the brand That’s, which are wholly owned by Taiyo Yuden.

As of late 2009, Taiyo Yuden announced they were buying the JVC Advanced Media brand, and making it a wholly owned and operated brand for TY products. They did this to put Taiyo Yuden products on store shelves worldwide. See update 4 at the bottom for a full explanation.

Simply put, I have never had problems with any kind of Taiyo Yuden media. Ever. I have bought CDs and DVDs under a dozen different brands (including non-Taiyo Yuden manufactured TDK and Verbatim), and the only ones that have had a 100% success rate is Taiyo Yuden.

If you cannot find any company selling media under the Taiyo Yuden/JVC Advanced Media brand, I suggest buying from the SuperMediaStore.com, who offer a wide range of Taiyo Yuden CD media, DVD-R media, and DVD+R media. I tend to buy just from them, as they are the only company that guarantees that their media is actually from Taiyo Yuden and not a fake (see the above linked FAQ on information about fake Taiyo Yuden media).

Why DVD+R?
This is the most technical section of the article. If you don’t understand the basics of how CD/DVD media works, or find such technical discussions boring, skip to the next section.

As I said earlier, DVD-R sucks for data preservation for three reasons: inferior error correction, inferior ‘wobble’ tracking, and the fact its data writing methods look like an un-needed halfway point between CD-R and DVD+R. The wobble tracking I shall explain first, then the error corrections method, then the specifics of ATIP/pre-pit/ADIP optimum power settings.

For a CD/DVD burner to track where it is on the disc, it uses three things: the ‘wobble’ of the data track (where it actually wobbles back and forth instead of in a straight line) to tell where it is in the track, the position of the track to tell where it is on the disc, and some additional information on the disc to tell where the track (singular, as CDs and DVDs only have one track, and it is written in a concentric spiral) begins and ends.

This additional information on a CD-R is called the ATIP (Absolute Time In Pregroove), which contains how long the track is, where it begins, what the maximum and minimum writing speeds are, what formula dye it uses, who actually made it, optimum power control settings, and error correction data. The ATIP is stored as a frequency modulation in the wobble itself.

However, since the wobble changes subtly to encode data, it is impossible to use with the small size of tracks DVD requires, as electric noise in the laser pickup and wobbles introduced by the electric motor spinning the disc, these could easily be read as frequency changes in the real track itself.

On DVD-R, they tried to solve the problem with something called ‘pre-pits’ where spikes in the amplitude of the wobble appear due to pits fully out of phase with the rest of the track (ie, between two spirals of the track, where there is no data). This can be viewed as a simple improvement over CD-R as it makes it easier to track the wobble (since the wobble is constant except for the easy to detect and remove spikes).

Unfortunately, this method as one flaw: due to electric noise in the laser pickup, it would be very easy to miss the pre-pit (or read one that wasn’t actually there) if the disc were damaged or spun at fast speeds. The time to read a pre-pit is 1T (roughly .0000000038th of a second), which even for a computer can be easy to miss. DVD-R traded hard to track frequency changes for hard to read wobble-encoded data.

On a DVD+R, however, they came up with a much better method. Instead of changing the frequency of the wobble, or causing amplitude spikes in the wobble, they use complete phase changes. Where CD-R’s and DVD-R’s methods make you choose between either easy wobble tracking or easy ATIP reading, DVD+R’s method makes it very easy to track the wobble, and also very easy to encode data into the wobble. DVD+R’s method is called ADIP (ADdress In Pre-groove), which uses a phase change method.

With ADIPs’ phase changes, the direction of the wobble changes and continues on going in the exact opposite direction (ie, counter-clockwise to clockwise, or the reverse). For example, if the wobble was ‘going up’, the phase change causes it to instantly reverse direction start ‘going down’ no matter where it in the wobble cycle. The phase change is very easy to detect, and also continues for a set period (in this case, one 32T section of the track, or 32 times longer than the pre-pit method of DVD-R).

The state of the phase change (clockwise or counter-clockwise) encodes the individual bits in each block In essence, with the phase change method, not only do you have an easy way of tracking the wobble, but you now have an easy way of reading wobble-encoded data.

As I mentioned earlier, this wobble-encoded data includes error correction of wobble-encoded data itself. Error correction is the most important part of media, because if it does not work, then you’ve lost your data, even if there is nothing seriously wrong with the disc.

The DVD-R specification states that for every 192 bits, 64 of them are not protected under any scheme, 24 of them are protected by 24 bits of parity, and the last 56 bits are protected by another 24 bits of parity. This weird (to put it mildly) scheme allows you to easily scramble or lose 25% of the data that is required to read your disk! This information is almost more important than the actual data burned on the disc itself.

The DVD+R specification, however, states that for every 204 bits of information, it is split into four blocks of 52 bits containing 1 sync bit to prevent misreading because of phase changes, 31 bits of data, and a 20 bit parity (that protects all 32 bits of data). The sync bit is always the same value in all four blocks, and exists only to prevent phase inversions.

Now, the third item on the list: how DVD+R discs burn better. As I said earlier, ATIP/pre-pit/ADIP stores information about optimum power control settings. This information is basically formulas stating how much output power is needed, what the laser startup power should be, and other pieces of information you require to properly burn a DVD.

Optimum power control output is dependent on three things: burning speed, laser wavelength, and information given to the drive about the media. DVD-R basically fails on all three accounts because DVD+R simply includes far more information about the media in the ADIP data than DVD-R does in it’s pre-pit data.

DVD+R includes four optimum profiles, one for four major burning speeds (usually 2x, 4x, 6x, and 8x, though this can change as speeds increase). Each of these profiles include optimum power output based on laser wavelength, more precise laser power settings, and other additional information. With this information, any DVD+R burner can far more optimize it’s burning strategy to fit the media than it can with DVD-R, consistently providing better burns.

For comparison, DVD-R includes one profile, optimum power output based for that one profile only and uncalibrated towards what wavelength it is for, less precise laser power settings, and no other additional information. Typically, DVD-R burners have to already know how to burn a certain piece of media (and include this information in their firmwares) before they can properly burn to it. New media often is not properly supported.

In addition to the optimum power control profiles, DVD+R also gives four times more scratch space for the drive to calibrate the laser on; more space can only improve the calibration quality. So, in short, DVD+R media exists to simply produce better burns and protect your data better.

And finally, the end of the article…
Finally, after roughly three pages of technical discussion, we arrive at the end of my dissertation on archival quality CD/DVD media. So, you’re probably now wondering, in simple terms, what media do I recommend?

To begin with, I do not recommend CD-RW, DVD-RW, or DVD+RW media in any form for permanent storage. This is mostly a no-brainer, but those discs are meant to be able to be changed after burning, and they are simply unsuitable for long-term archival storage. I also do not recommend DVD-R media due to DVD+R’s superior error correction and burning control.

That said, I recommend Taiyo Yuden media across the board. Taiyo Yuden currently manufactures 52x CD-R, 16x DVD-R, and 16x DVD+R media in normal shiney silver, inkjet printable, and thermal printable forms. Taiyo Yuden may be one of the most expensive (if not the most expensive), but their media quality is unsurpassed. Also, as I mentioned earlier, I recommended buying from SuperMediaStore.com as they are the only online US distributor that guarantees that their Taiyo Yuden media is certified as coming from Taiyo Yuden.

So, what am I using? Due to Taiyo Yuden’s superior media quality, and DVD+R’s superior design, I use only Taiyo Yuden DVD+R media. I recommend this media to everyone who wishes to keep their data for a long, long time.

Update 1: It seems MAM-A and Kodak actually has managed to make a gold DVD, though no one else seems to be manufacturing them (Taiyo Yuden/JVC Advanced Media now makes an archival gold disc, see update 6). However, MAM-A’s gold archival media still doesn’t seem to exceed TY quality (although Mr 60,000 in the comments below puts TY second best to MAM-A). Due to the extreme cost of gold archival media ($2+ a disc) with very little increased protection (if any), I’ll still say TY media is better. I want to see more independent tests on this before I change my recommendation.

In addition, I’d like to mention that Verbatim has been relabeling other brands of disc as their own. If the box/spindle/cakebox the discs come in don’t say they’re manufactured with Verbatim’s proprietary Azo dye (sometimes called Advanced Azo, sometimes not, depending on the product) then they aren’t Verbatim media at all and should be avoided as they may not meet typical home archival standards.

Update 2: (Sept. 19th 2007) Its almost been a year since I first wrote this article. My recommendations for media have not changed, my recommendations for DVD burners have.

Samsung: Samsung is currently producing two drives worth owning, the
Samsung SH-S222AB
(SATA). They’re not considered archival grade, but they’re not bad.

TEAC: TEAC makes an archival drive that is ISO/IEC10995 compliant, and is very expensive. Comes in two forms, external USB DV-W5000U and internal SATA DV-W5000S. I’ve seen DV-W5000U drives for sale for $500, and refurbished DV-W5000S drives for $150-200. This is the elite of drives, and recommended if you’re very serious about 30+ year archival storage.

Update 3: (July 26th 2009) Its been awhile since I updated this article. Pioneer is no longer manufacturing drives worth using. Just buy a Samsung or TEAC drive like I link to above. I’m using two Samsung drives now after my PX-716 finally died after years of service.

My recommendation on TY and Verbatim hasn’t changed, and I imagine it will never change; DVD media will not change significantly from here on out. Bluray in my opinion is not worth switching over to unless you’re storing data that can be measured in hundreds of gigabytes, and at that point you might want to look into archival tape storage.

When Bluray is worth switching over to, I’ll write a follow up article to this one. High quality single layer media will have to drop below 50 cents a piece and Bluray burners will have to become ubiquitous (much like DVD burners are now) before that happens. I’m thinking 2011 or later.

Update 4: (August 3rd 2010) Taiyo Yuden has bought the JVC Media brand and is now operating under the JVC Advanced Media brand. You can now buy TY inside JVC boxes and get your usual TY quality. This site has the conversion of part numbers.

JVC has not bought Taiyo Yuden, and Taiyo Yuden is in full control of this new venture. They merely bought they name so they can put TY products on store shelves worldwide.

SuperMediaStore.com is selling almost all JVC Advanced Media branded TY products in place of the old TY branded ones.

Update 5: (September 27th 2011) A few people have asked about how PIE/PIF scans work.

DVD-R and DVD+R both employ two stage error correction.

PIE (Parity Inner Error) just means error correction was used, PIF (Parity Inner Failure) means the error was unrecoverable using the inner ECC block but still may be recovered using the outer ECC block . On tools that give avg/max/total, max PIE values above 140, or max PIF values above 4* means the disc needs to be replaced but the data most likely isn’t corrupted yet**.

For a burn to be considered still pristine you want max PIE below 20 and max PIF 3 or lower.

Discs will NOT be pristine after 5 years, but there is a fall off of PIF/PIE increasing after 6 months and doesn’t seem to start picking up again until 5-10 years depending on storage environment.

Totals for PIF can be as high as 100k yet have a max of 20, and total PIF can be as high as 1000 but have a max below 3. Max PIE is considered mostly fatal above 280 and can reach as high as 1664, and max PIF can reach as high as 208*.

DVD+R generally will maintain lower values for both due to superior error correction techniques.

* Some tools and/or drives won’t list above 4 for PIF.

** Some tools and/or drives also list PO (Parity Outer) uncorrectable errors. This is for any read that has a max PIF above 4. This indicates a mostly unrecoverable data corruption error, which would effect (if I’ve done my math right) 36k of data (although that doesn’t mean the whole 36k of data is corrupted, just that its corrupted inside of that 36k). This still does not indicate the disc is unreadable, some obsessive ripping tools will try multiple reads in an effort to get a valid read or different incorrect reads that can be merged into a valid read.

Update 6: (January 11th 2013) Taiyo Yuden announced last year that they are now producing an ISO/IEC10995 compliant archival grade gold alloy DVD-R. Sadly, its not DVD+R and I’m hoping they’ll consider making a DVD+R version as well. Not many vendors carry this disc yet.

Also, a few people have asked when I’m going to write that Bluray follow up article. I don’t think Bluray is viable for long term archival storage yet. I continue my recommendation that if you need to store hundreds of gigabytes of data or more, consider archival tape.

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Published October 30th, 2006

Comments

1,249 Responses

Is it true that the specifications for DVD-R are more like a pressed DVD compared to DVD+R.
And a preesed DVD, how long can you expect that to last?
Since it’s not containing any dye that can fade it should last much longer..or?

Great Article, explanation of dash r, and plur r dvd’s very helpful, and thanks for the tip on Taiyo Yuden dvd+r as being your preferred choice of dvd media.

I don’t think they’re leapfrogging. From what I’ve seen, +R and +RW lags behind -R and -RW about six months.

The technological difference between +R/+RW and -R/-RW is related to how they structure data on the disc as opposed to how the format itself works… both -RW and +RW use the same phase change technology.

Its quite possible the +RW market has grown big enough that -RW took a back seat to newly issued speeds.

It seems like the max speed of DVD+RWs (both media & drives) have historically been a bit further ahead of DVD-RWs for any given time frame. i.e. DVD+RW came out with 2.4x and 4x around the same time that DVD-RW was at 2x, and today DVD+RWs are available at 8x while the max for DVD-RW is only at 6x. Is this perception correct, or are the two formats just leapfrogging each other? If the perception is correct, do any of your technical explanations of why +R is better related to the reason? I could believe the use of the phase change approach and/or multiple sets of laser calibrations could contribute to this, but I wasn’t sure. Thanks…

Wow Daniel, I find it amazing that you managed to comment, yet not read the article at all.

I recommend Taiyo Yuden and Verbatim. 8x and 16x is the maximum speed you can burn the media.

My family is trying to make a family album on a DVD. What is the best media to use. What is 8X or 16X. Thanks so much.

Most likely, yes. I’ve had no issue with them.

I wonder if you think that Verbatim DVD+R Double Layer has the same archival properties as the +R?

They’re Panasonic burners, and they work fine. I have one in my Powerbook and I haven’t had any problems nor have heard of anyone else having problems.

Terrific Article–Thanks for the continued efforts.

One question, I use an Apple iMAC which has a “Superdrive” (MATSHITA burner with ATAPI interconnect).

What do you think of this drive for burning integrity? Any other recommendations for either internal (ATAPI interface) or, if necessary, a Firewire Interface?

Thanks Tons–
John

Less than a year ago, Verbatim came out with this gold media. I’m pretty sure they made it because people keep falling for the advertising that surrounds gold media.

If someone is willing to pay $2 per disc, Verbatim has a right to get in on the action too.

Its made with the Verbatim quality everyone knows and loves, but I still cannot honestly say I believe its better than their usual DVD+Rs.

As for testing, no, you can’t possibly do the test outside of force aging. I tend to divide numbers like those by four, it gives a much more realistic expectation of how long something will last.

I’d love to see a huge ass impartial test, but except for that one that the Library of Congress did (which I still think was tainted by gold media fanaticism), it ain’t happening.

I trust you. You seems to know what you’re talking about. It’s not that.

But if Verbatim has archival properties why do they manufact and market an archival grade DVD-R with dual gold/silver reflective layer that they claim last longer according to own tests with forced aging.
Is it only to meet the competition from other brands and to have this type of product to be able to get some marketshares. So their competitors will not be alone in this segment of products?
But if their basic DVD is as good when it comes to archival properties then you can say they are fooling us to buy more expensive DVD’s and make us believe that they will last longer.
I like to see impartial tests with all brands that now has DVD’s that goes under the name “archival” and see how they stand against common DVD’s. That should include both aging and durablity against scratches and so on.
Since many of them claims that the archival DVD can last 100 years under right conditions you might wonder if one can do such a test?
What’s your opinion about this?

Well, thats the fallacy I explained in my article. No manufacturer of gold media has proven that their media lasts any longer than TY or Verbatim’s.

For the cost of over three times more per disc, I expect the gold media to last three times longer or take three times more abuse or survive in three times more unfavorable conditions.

Instead, the gold media survives, statistically, around a percent better than TY’s archival-grade non-gold DVD+R: in other words, on most tests, within the margin of error.

They may say their media is better, but they can’t reasonably prove it.

With archival grade I mean those with a gold layer and that market themself as archival grade in the name.
I have now found some that produces those in DVD+R like Mitsui Gold (4X) archival grade that comes in both -R and +R.
You say that all Verbatim are archival grade and maybe so but they have a special “archival grade” DVD-R with a with a dual gold/silver reflective layer
that they claim last longer.
And that comes only in DVD-R and as you claim that DVD+R is a better format with better error correction I would be interested in a Verbatim archval grade DVD+R. So why don’t they manufact one?

You have it backwards: no one produces a ‘value’ grade of DVD+R: all DVD+R produced by TY and Verbatim are archival grade.

I have notice that there are now several brands that produces DVD-R archival grade. But I have not seen any DVD+R archival grade yet.
Why?
Are they more difficult to produce?
I think they shouldn’t be..

Yes I’ve seen that URL, and I wonder why they haven’t updated it, or added additional information. Verbatim sometimes buys TY discs and slaps a Verbatim label on them: thats the only outsourcing I’ve ever seen them do.

And that bit about greedy companies? No, the companies who invented DVD-R were greedy, DVD-R uses a data layout incompatible with DVD-ROM. DVD+R, on the other hand, uses DVD-ROM’s format with completely backwards compatible changes.

As such, the booktype hack works on DVD+R but not on DVD-R, tricking most “pirate proof” DVD-ROM only stand alone DVD players into playing DVD+Rs. Also, many early DVD drives for computers can’t read DVD-Rs, but they can read DVD+R fine (even though the format was designed after their production).

I don’t agree with the politics behind DVD-R, and it gives the entire DVD community as a whole a black eye. Ultimately, it doesn’t matter in the long run: TY and Verbatim both make DVD-R and DVD+R, and they are all of very similar quality. I just prefer DVD+R because of an increased chance of data recovery in the case of damaged media.

This site shows that Verbatim can outsource to numerous manufacturers:

http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm

How/why do say Verbatim quality is equal to TY?

On another page, the above site says about DVD+R “invented by greedy companies that were unwilling to pay royalties to the DVD Forum in order to use and develop the DVD-R format and/or use the DVD logo.”

They pretty much give DVD+ a black eye.

Comments?

Thanks for a great article!

Maybe in the far future, possibly. Solid state media that can survive the read/write cycles that modern magnetic media in the common hard drive can is about $50 a gigabyte, where enterprise quality drives are about 20 cents a gigabyte.

Ask me again in ten years, the answer might be favorable then.

Very good article, being in the computer industry for many years and to say I’ve burned over 10000 discs probably to date. I’d have to agree with your choice, I as well went from Plextor to Pioneer for my latest drive of choice with duel layer concerns. I was looking to find out how long data would last on different types of media and found this article had answered many different media questions I’ve pondered over the years. I will look forward to trying Taiyo Yuden media soon.. What are your opinions on solid state memory now that prices have been dropping so rappidly. Do you ever see solid state memory as a new method towards future large data backup media?

Russ

There is a link on the PLEXTOR site to a store that sells factory reconditoined PX-712 and and PX-716 burners if you must have one.

I use DVD+R myself for most things; but never hada problem unzipping archived files to a desktop again and again…

Well, theres two things that might be going on here. You may have a bad batch (it very infrequently happens, maybe one in a million spindles); or your Sony DVD player is randomly freaking out for no good reason on TY media.

Talk to SMS and see if you can exchange the spindle for either another TY spindle from a different batch, or a different brand altogether. They’re usually good about this.

Thanks for your article. I have just purchased a 100 disc of Taiyo Yuden DVD+R from SMS, although there were no markings anywhere that stated “Taiyo Yuden.” They were not on a spindle and only wrapped in plastic. I have burned the same video (movie)onto 15 discs. Six of those were failures. Thru Nero Vision, they showed to be burned successfully, but on Sony DVD Player playback, they had “broken frame freeze up” that stopped in the player. They would eventually “release,” but would skip far ahead of freeze point. Also, I took a copy I had made that I knew was good and made three copies using Sonic MyDVD Copy. One copy was good, the other two had the freeze-up during playback. Is my disc burn failure problem one of bad media or could there be something else to cause it. I’d truly appreciate your thoughts.

Thank you.

I regularly recommend Verbatim media in cases TY isn’t available, so you’re fine there.

Also, consider buying larger packs than 10 discs at a time, you’re paying too much per disc.

Hi,
Sorry for not reading all the 41 pages of comments before replying, but:
I live in Lithuania and there is a problem with getting TY DVD+Rs as i could not find any shop which would sell these.

I want to copy all the home movies from VHS to DVDs.

I recently bought Verbatim 10pack cake DVD+R 16x Advanced AZO+ disks which are MCC 004 for 12,99LTL(3,75€) and i wanted to know, how would you rate these disks as a long-term storage? Is its quality far from TY?

Thank you

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