How To Choose CD/DVD Archival Media

(Last updated January 11th 2013)

Translations: Serbo-Croatian by Jovana Milutinovich

Ahh, I’ve been planning to write this one for awhile: an entire article on archival quality media. As I do professional software development as well as professional photography (what a weird combination), I need archival quality CD and DVD media to store my data on.

However, one of the hardest things to is actually find good media, or even understand why it is good media. This article focuses on the history of Compact Discs, writable CD/DVD media, and why DVD+R is superior to DVD-R. If you want to just know what media is worth buying, skip to the summary at the bottom.

Short history of the Compact Disc
The invention of the Compact Disc has had a large impact on both music and computing in the last 20 years. Invented in 1979 as a joint project between Sony and Philips to counter the self-destructive nature of consumer audio playback (such as tapes and records that could only be played so many times before the recording degraded significantly) by switching to a resilient digital format.

The CD was also designed to store standard computer data, as in 1985 the first CD drives for computers were released; massive, bulky, and expensive, it was not until the mid-90s that they really took off, driven almost solely by video games and large multimedia applications.

In 1990, Sony and Philips went back to the drawing table, and then came out with the CD-R, a record-once medium. Yet again, the first CD burners were large, expensive, and bulky, but by the late 90s having a CD burner was the new ‘in’.

The first few generations of CD media, designed by Taiyo Yuden (a company who I respect, and buy all my archival quality media from), actually kind of sucked; it wasn’t until around 2000 that companies started producing very high end media.

CDs and DVDs store individual bits (encoded in various ways depending on the media) with spots of reflective and non-reflective areas. This method is called ‘pits and lands’, where pits ‘absorb’ light (ie, are ‘off’ bits) and lands ‘reflect’ light (ie, are ‘on’ bits).

With pressed media, the pressing method causes pits to reflect the laser’s light away from the sensor, and the lands to reflect it back at the sensor. With burned media, a high energy laser causes spots of organic dye to go opaque and obscure the reflective surface for the pits, leaving the organic dye for lands alone.

Short history of the DVD
While burning was becoming popular in the late 90s, so was playing high quality video on DVDs. Storing almost 7 times the data of a 700MB CD (or almost 13 in the case of dual layer DVDs), allowed companies to store massive amounts of data on one disc, leading to the movie industry to drop VHS tapes and the video game industry to drop CDs.

In 1995, the first DVD specification was ratified by over a dozen companies including Sony and Philips, as well as Thompson, Pioneer, and Mitsubishi. By 2000, at least half the homes in the US and Japan had DVD players.

So, obviously, the next step was to produce burnable DVDs. Two separate, and incompatible, efforts took hold. The first one, Pioneer’s DVD-R (pronounced ‘DVD dash R’) was released in 1997, using different data storage methods than pressed DVDs (appearing to be more like CD-R than DVD), a poor error correction scheme, and the ‘wobble’ laser tracking system of DVD-R is inadequate for the job.

The second effort, lead by the DVD+RW Alliance (headed by Sony, Philips, Mitsubishi, and Thompson) was released in 2002, as an alternative to the poorly implemented DVD-R. DVD+R uses a superior ‘wobble’ laser tracking system, a far better error correction method, and the media quality itself is typically higher. (See the ‘Why DVD+R?’ section below for a more technical explanation)

Why archival media is hard to produce
Unlike pressed CDs/DVDs, ‘burnt’ CDs/DVDs can eventually ‘fade’, due to five things that effect the quality of CD media: Sealing method, reflective layer, organic dye makeup, where it was manufactured, and your storage practices (please keep all media out of direct sunlight, in a nice cool dry dark place, in acid-free plastic containers; this will triple the lifetime of any media).

The silver and aluminum alloys used in virtually all blank CD/DVD media has one major issue, requiring the manufacturer to lacquer a protective seal over the entire disc: silver and aluminum oxidize when they hit air, turning the normally reflective layer into silver or aluminum rust. Some (very expensive) media uses gold instead which doesn’t oxidize, however DVD media cannot use gold due to design issues (not true anymore, see update 1 below). Today, only the cheapest of the cheap media has severe issues with sealing practices (as such, avoid any media made outside of Japan and Taiwan; especially avoid media made in India).

Assuming that the protective seal and reflective layer are manufactured correctly, the next issue is the organic dye. The first organic dyes, designed by Taiyo Yuden, were Cyanine-based and, under normal conditions, had a shelf life of around ten years; simply, that was simply unacceptable for archive discs. Taiyo Yuden, Mitsubishi Chemicals, Mitsui Co., and Ciba Specialty Chemicals spent the next ten years trying to produce the best organic dyes, eventually reaching archive-quality CD media.

Taiyo Yuden produced ‘Super Cyanine’, a chemically stabilized version of the original Cyanine dye designs, while TDK offers media that uses ‘metal-stabilized Cyanine’ dye, leading to similar shelf lives as Taiyo Yuden’s media. Taiyo Yuden states their Super Cyanine dye is chemically stable for at least 70 years, and TDK states their metal-stabilized Cyanine is also stable for 70 years.

On the other hand, Mitsubishi went in a different direction and produced what is called a Metal Azo dye, that they claim is stable for around 100 years. Azo dyes are chemically stable, however, the shelf life of media using Azo dyes typically does not exceed that of Super Cyanine and metal-stabilized Cyanine.

The third dye produced for CD media is called Phthalocyanine dye, with the majority of such dyes produced by Mitsui and Ciba. Typically marketed as more resistant to heat and UV radiation than Cyanine and Azo, modern Cyanine and Azo dyes last just as long in extreme conditions.

DVDs also use similar dyes, however manufacturers have intentionally kept what dyes they use a secret (instead of a feature in their marketing of the media), and all blank DVDs are intentionally the same color (as different dyes on CDs make blanks different colors, however, it is not indicative of what dye is used due to some manufacturers using different colored silver alloys and non-reactive additives in the dye).

Why Taiyo Yuden media, and how to buy in the US
The best discs in circulation tend to be Taiyo Yuden media. In Japan, you find their media under the brand That’s, which are wholly owned by Taiyo Yuden.

As of late 2009, Taiyo Yuden announced they were buying the JVC Advanced Media brand, and making it a wholly owned and operated brand for TY products. They did this to put Taiyo Yuden products on store shelves worldwide. See update 4 at the bottom for a full explanation.

Simply put, I have never had problems with any kind of Taiyo Yuden media. Ever. I have bought CDs and DVDs under a dozen different brands (including non-Taiyo Yuden manufactured TDK and Verbatim), and the only ones that have had a 100% success rate is Taiyo Yuden.

If you cannot find any company selling media under the Taiyo Yuden/JVC Advanced Media brand, I suggest buying from the, who offer a wide range of Taiyo Yuden CD media, DVD-R media, and DVD+R media. I tend to buy just from them, as they are the only company that guarantees that their media is actually from Taiyo Yuden and not a fake (see the above linked FAQ on information about fake Taiyo Yuden media).

Why DVD+R?
This is the most technical section of the article. If you don’t understand the basics of how CD/DVD media works, or find such technical discussions boring, skip to the next section.

As I said earlier, DVD-R sucks for data preservation for three reasons: inferior error correction, inferior ‘wobble’ tracking, and the fact its data writing methods look like an un-needed halfway point between CD-R and DVD+R. The wobble tracking I shall explain first, then the error corrections method, then the specifics of ATIP/pre-pit/ADIP optimum power settings.

For a CD/DVD burner to track where it is on the disc, it uses three things: the ‘wobble’ of the data track (where it actually wobbles back and forth instead of in a straight line) to tell where it is in the track, the position of the track to tell where it is on the disc, and some additional information on the disc to tell where the track (singular, as CDs and DVDs only have one track, and it is written in a concentric spiral) begins and ends.

This additional information on a CD-R is called the ATIP (Absolute Time In Pregroove), which contains how long the track is, where it begins, what the maximum and minimum writing speeds are, what formula dye it uses, who actually made it, optimum power control settings, and error correction data. The ATIP is stored as a frequency modulation in the wobble itself.

However, since the wobble changes subtly to encode data, it is impossible to use with the small size of tracks DVD requires, as electric noise in the laser pickup and wobbles introduced by the electric motor spinning the disc, these could easily be read as frequency changes in the real track itself.

On DVD-R, they tried to solve the problem with something called ‘pre-pits’ where spikes in the amplitude of the wobble appear due to pits fully out of phase with the rest of the track (ie, between two spirals of the track, where there is no data). This can be viewed as a simple improvement over CD-R as it makes it easier to track the wobble (since the wobble is constant except for the easy to detect and remove spikes).

Unfortunately, this method as one flaw: due to electric noise in the laser pickup, it would be very easy to miss the pre-pit (or read one that wasn’t actually there) if the disc were damaged or spun at fast speeds. The time to read a pre-pit is 1T (roughly .0000000038th of a second), which even for a computer can be easy to miss. DVD-R traded hard to track frequency changes for hard to read wobble-encoded data.

On a DVD+R, however, they came up with a much better method. Instead of changing the frequency of the wobble, or causing amplitude spikes in the wobble, they use complete phase changes. Where CD-R’s and DVD-R’s methods make you choose between either easy wobble tracking or easy ATIP reading, DVD+R’s method makes it very easy to track the wobble, and also very easy to encode data into the wobble. DVD+R’s method is called ADIP (ADdress In Pre-groove), which uses a phase change method.

With ADIPs’ phase changes, the direction of the wobble changes and continues on going in the exact opposite direction (ie, counter-clockwise to clockwise, or the reverse). For example, if the wobble was ‘going up’, the phase change causes it to instantly reverse direction start ‘going down’ no matter where it in the wobble cycle. The phase change is very easy to detect, and also continues for a set period (in this case, one 32T section of the track, or 32 times longer than the pre-pit method of DVD-R).

The state of the phase change (clockwise or counter-clockwise) encodes the individual bits in each block In essence, with the phase change method, not only do you have an easy way of tracking the wobble, but you now have an easy way of reading wobble-encoded data.

As I mentioned earlier, this wobble-encoded data includes error correction of wobble-encoded data itself. Error correction is the most important part of media, because if it does not work, then you’ve lost your data, even if there is nothing seriously wrong with the disc.

The DVD-R specification states that for every 192 bits, 64 of them are not protected under any scheme, 24 of them are protected by 24 bits of parity, and the last 56 bits are protected by another 24 bits of parity. This weird (to put it mildly) scheme allows you to easily scramble or lose 25% of the data that is required to read your disk! This information is almost more important than the actual data burned on the disc itself.

The DVD+R specification, however, states that for every 204 bits of information, it is split into four blocks of 52 bits containing 1 sync bit to prevent misreading because of phase changes, 31 bits of data, and a 20 bit parity (that protects all 32 bits of data). The sync bit is always the same value in all four blocks, and exists only to prevent phase inversions.

Now, the third item on the list: how DVD+R discs burn better. As I said earlier, ATIP/pre-pit/ADIP stores information about optimum power control settings. This information is basically formulas stating how much output power is needed, what the laser startup power should be, and other pieces of information you require to properly burn a DVD.

Optimum power control output is dependent on three things: burning speed, laser wavelength, and information given to the drive about the media. DVD-R basically fails on all three accounts because DVD+R simply includes far more information about the media in the ADIP data than DVD-R does in it’s pre-pit data.

DVD+R includes four optimum profiles, one for four major burning speeds (usually 2x, 4x, 6x, and 8x, though this can change as speeds increase). Each of these profiles include optimum power output based on laser wavelength, more precise laser power settings, and other additional information. With this information, any DVD+R burner can far more optimize it’s burning strategy to fit the media than it can with DVD-R, consistently providing better burns.

For comparison, DVD-R includes one profile, optimum power output based for that one profile only and uncalibrated towards what wavelength it is for, less precise laser power settings, and no other additional information. Typically, DVD-R burners have to already know how to burn a certain piece of media (and include this information in their firmwares) before they can properly burn to it. New media often is not properly supported.

In addition to the optimum power control profiles, DVD+R also gives four times more scratch space for the drive to calibrate the laser on; more space can only improve the calibration quality. So, in short, DVD+R media exists to simply produce better burns and protect your data better.

And finally, the end of the article…
Finally, after roughly three pages of technical discussion, we arrive at the end of my dissertation on archival quality CD/DVD media. So, you’re probably now wondering, in simple terms, what media do I recommend?

To begin with, I do not recommend CD-RW, DVD-RW, or DVD+RW media in any form for permanent storage. This is mostly a no-brainer, but those discs are meant to be able to be changed after burning, and they are simply unsuitable for long-term archival storage. I also do not recommend DVD-R media due to DVD+R’s superior error correction and burning control.

That said, I recommend Taiyo Yuden media across the board. Taiyo Yuden currently manufactures 52x CD-R, 16x DVD-R, and 16x DVD+R media in normal shiney silver, inkjet printable, and thermal printable forms. Taiyo Yuden may be one of the most expensive (if not the most expensive), but their media quality is unsurpassed. Also, as I mentioned earlier, I recommended buying from as they are the only online US distributor that guarantees that their Taiyo Yuden media is certified as coming from Taiyo Yuden.

So, what am I using? Due to Taiyo Yuden’s superior media quality, and DVD+R’s superior design, I use only Taiyo Yuden DVD+R media. I recommend this media to everyone who wishes to keep their data for a long, long time.

Update 1: It seems MAM-A and Kodak actually has managed to make a gold DVD, though no one else seems to be manufacturing them (Taiyo Yuden/JVC Advanced Media now makes an archival gold disc, see update 6). However, MAM-A’s gold archival media still doesn’t seem to exceed TY quality (although Mr 60,000 in the comments below puts TY second best to MAM-A). Due to the extreme cost of gold archival media ($2+ a disc) with very little increased protection (if any), I’ll still say TY media is better. I want to see more independent tests on this before I change my recommendation.

In addition, I’d like to mention that Verbatim has been relabeling other brands of disc as their own. If the box/spindle/cakebox the discs come in don’t say they’re manufactured with Verbatim’s proprietary Azo dye (sometimes called Advanced Azo, sometimes not, depending on the product) then they aren’t Verbatim media at all and should be avoided as they may not meet typical home archival standards.

Update 2: (Sept. 19th 2007) Its almost been a year since I first wrote this article. My recommendations for media have not changed, my recommendations for DVD burners have.

Samsung: Samsung is currently producing two drives worth owning, the
Samsung SH-S222AB
(SATA). They’re not considered archival grade, but they’re not bad.

TEAC: TEAC makes an archival drive that is ISO/IEC10995 compliant, and is very expensive. Comes in two forms, external USB DV-W5000U and internal SATA DV-W5000S. I’ve seen DV-W5000U drives for sale for $500, and refurbished DV-W5000S drives for $150-200. This is the elite of drives, and recommended if you’re very serious about 30+ year archival storage.

Update 3: (July 26th 2009) Its been awhile since I updated this article. Pioneer is no longer manufacturing drives worth using. Just buy a Samsung or TEAC drive like I link to above. I’m using two Samsung drives now after my PX-716 finally died after years of service.

My recommendation on TY and Verbatim hasn’t changed, and I imagine it will never change; DVD media will not change significantly from here on out. Bluray in my opinion is not worth switching over to unless you’re storing data that can be measured in hundreds of gigabytes, and at that point you might want to look into archival tape storage.

When Bluray is worth switching over to, I’ll write a follow up article to this one. High quality single layer media will have to drop below 50 cents a piece and Bluray burners will have to become ubiquitous (much like DVD burners are now) before that happens. I’m thinking 2011 or later.

Update 4: (August 3rd 2010) Taiyo Yuden has bought the JVC Media brand and is now operating under the JVC Advanced Media brand. You can now buy TY inside JVC boxes and get your usual TY quality. This site has the conversion of part numbers.

JVC has not bought Taiyo Yuden, and Taiyo Yuden is in full control of this new venture. They merely bought they name so they can put TY products on store shelves worldwide. is selling almost all JVC Advanced Media branded TY products in place of the old TY branded ones.

Update 5: (September 27th 2011) A few people have asked about how PIE/PIF scans work.

DVD-R and DVD+R both employ two stage error correction.

PIE (Parity Inner Error) just means error correction was used, PIF (Parity Inner Failure) means the error was unrecoverable using the inner ECC block but still may be recovered using the outer ECC block . On tools that give avg/max/total, max PIE values above 140, or max PIF values above 4* means the disc needs to be replaced but the data most likely isn’t corrupted yet**.

For a burn to be considered still pristine you want max PIE below 20 and max PIF 3 or lower.

Discs will NOT be pristine after 5 years, but there is a fall off of PIF/PIE increasing after 6 months and doesn’t seem to start picking up again until 5-10 years depending on storage environment.

Totals for PIF can be as high as 100k yet have a max of 20, and total PIF can be as high as 1000 but have a max below 3. Max PIE is considered mostly fatal above 280 and can reach as high as 1664, and max PIF can reach as high as 208*.

DVD+R generally will maintain lower values for both due to superior error correction techniques.

* Some tools and/or drives won’t list above 4 for PIF.

** Some tools and/or drives also list PO (Parity Outer) uncorrectable errors. This is for any read that has a max PIF above 4. This indicates a mostly unrecoverable data corruption error, which would effect (if I’ve done my math right) 36k of data (although that doesn’t mean the whole 36k of data is corrupted, just that its corrupted inside of that 36k). This still does not indicate the disc is unreadable, some obsessive ripping tools will try multiple reads in an effort to get a valid read or different incorrect reads that can be merged into a valid read.

Update 6: (January 11th 2013) Taiyo Yuden announced last year that they are now producing an ISO/IEC10995 compliant archival grade gold alloy DVD-R. Sadly, its not DVD+R and I’m hoping they’ll consider making a DVD+R version as well. Not many vendors carry this disc yet.

Also, a few people have asked when I’m going to write that Bluray follow up article. I don’t think Bluray is viable for long term archival storage yet. I continue my recommendation that if you need to store hundreds of gigabytes of data or more, consider archival tape.

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Published October 30th, 2006


1,255 Responses

Hmm, I’ve have to consider investing in a good CD pen then. Anyone have any suggestions? Also, whats the chances of me being comment 100? eh?

da9ve, the copyright office also says to stay away from Sharpies and find water based inks as well. My problem is that I can’t find them locally so I’ve still been using Sharpies which will make your disks non-archival. What water based type are you currently using?

They also said to refrain from writing on the portions of the disk containing data and only write on the small clear center portion of the disk.

Johan Krüger-Haglert

So what DVD+R drive makes the best writes then? I got my drive early so it’s an LG GMA-4020b 2x DVD-R drive, it has worked good but is rather slow of course.

I’ve been looking into the Pioneer DVR-111d but reading reviews on cdrinfo it seems like that drive isn’t perfect in all areas either, althought the tested Plextor and Sony ones aren’t either and the Nec seems rather crappy.

Earlier I’ve wanted to order TY DVD-R media and I’ve stayed with DVD-R since it was said to work with more hardware and I don’t know if my Gamecube can read DVD+R (Only discs I know it can read is Ritek G04/G05 DVD-R, Verbatim 16x DVD-R printable didn’t worked.)

I guess you haven’t tried TY DVD+R in the Gamecube, would suck if I got 2-300 discs and they didn’t worked =P

But anyway, which drive makes the best writes then?

gregg: Are you sure it just isn’t grime from you touching the discs? Or if you didn’t fill those discs to the full 700 megs, are you sure its just not unused media?

da9ve: cdrkit (the tools that all Linux users use to burn CDs and DVDs) can read those same codes. These are the same codes that CD/DVD burners use to optimize their burning strategy.

Problem is, all fake media fakes these codes (which is rather easy as its just data on a disc). TY fakes have the exact same ID data.

Labels will ruin DVDs as well. A friend of mine had a DVD actually bend in half due to a bad label.

CD companies and archival experts recommend Sharpies for some reason. They don’t degrade discs in any way that I know of. If you’re worried, use the pens that TDK, Verbatim, or Kodak sell.

Also, back to codes, those codes only state who actually manufactured it. With TDK, unless they’re manufacturing with a TDK code (TDK does have them), they will list either TY, CMC, or Moser Baer.

The ID data is contained as a string, you do not have to update software to read new IDs.

Kevin asked the first question I thought of; I’d also like to read a much more rigorous critique of rewritable media as archival storage. I tend to think (based on two degrees in mechanical engineering and having taught a metallurgy lab in grad school) that a metallic phase-change alloy would age very differently (i.e., would be affected by different factors, maybe more by physical stresses and less by electromagnetic radiation, maybe less by temperature extremes and more by repeated read cycles [not worried about repeated write cycles – if I’m gonna use a RW disc as archival, I’m only writing it once]) compared to a burned dye layer – but that’s mostly speculation. I’ve searched occasionally for good detailed aging studies of RW media, but have come up empty-handed.

Some other observations:

There are several suppliers who cater to the audio music taper community who sell TY media for very competitive prices:

..are two I’ve bought from regularly with no complaints (I’m only a customer, not affiliated in any way).

Much of the rest of my comments are more CD-R-centric that germane to DVD recordable media, so feel free to stop reading here if that’s all you’re interested in.

I’ve heard reassuring things about CDParanoia for extracting audio CDs, but for Windows-based digital audio extraction (DAE), Exact Audio Copy ( is the only app I trust. It’s cardware, so the price is right, and it does more rigorous error checking and is more flexibly configurable (read and write offsets, read modes, etc.) than any other app I know of.

For reading physically damaged or degraded CD-Rs, I have in the past had great success with the BlindRead/BlindWrite suite (I guess now just called BlindWrite:; it allowed me to do RAW reads of many audio CD-Rs that had been degraded/damaged by labels* or exposure to sunlight when no other application would even get halfway there. That said, more recent versions of the program baffle me – the old configuration options are gone or deeply hidden, they seem to pitch it as a “game copying tool” almost exclusively, rather than a highly configurable data recovery tool, and I haven’t been able to get my current drives (Plextor DVD and CD burners) to give me any worthwhile results with the program in maybe over three years.

* NEVER stick a full-face label on a CD-R that you want to read again in a year. I’ve burned maybe 3,000 CD-Rs (mostly Fuji-branded Taiyo Yudens, Verbatims, Mitsuis, Kodaks and a few other brands, starting as far back as 1997), and the vast majority of discs either written by myself or received in trades that I’ve found unreadable have had labels on them. The most probable mechanism causing damage is drying/shrinkage of the adhesive causing shear stresses and peeling of the extremely delicate top lacquer layer. Besides that, some players (especially slot-loading car CD players) can easily be annoyed by extra-thick discs or those with labels not firmly affixed at the edges. It is definitely possible for a misapplied label to throw the balance of a fast-spinning disc off, as well, but most people who use labels probably have something like a CD Stomper to make sure the label is properly centered, so balance shouldn’t be an issue most of the time, though is more likely the faster the disc is spun. This means, audio CD players shouldn’t have that problem, but fast computer drives very likely will.

All that said about CD-R labels, since the writing surface of a writeable DVD is protected by a whole ‘nother plastic layer and not just a thin lacquer layer, the same method of degradation probably doesn’t apply so much for DVD-/+Rs. Even so, I don’t see any real need for labels on my own archival discs – I just label the hub area with a bright marker.

Re markers: What is it with Sharpies? Why does everybody clamor for Sharpies? The Sharpies I know of use a very nasty non-water-based ink – I’m very suspicious that highly volatile alcohol- or other corrosive solvent-based ink will eat right through any thin lacquer layer on a CD-R. I’ve used exclusively water-based markers with no problems for years, BUT it’s often hard to find out which markers are water-based. (I’m not sure if the ones sold under several brand names as especially intended for CD-Rs are or not.) The best brand I ever found that was clearly labeled as such was the Dixon Ticonderoga Redi-Sharp Plus – discontinued years ago, much to my disgruntlement.

Re brand codes on blanks: For CD-Rs, there used to be (dunno if they still exist) a few little utilities that would read codes off a blank inserted into your CD burner and tell you who the actual manufacturer was. CDRInfo and CDR-ID were two – Google ’em and see if they’re still around. ISTR Sony poking them with the pointy legal stick over some claim of proprietary-ness of that data. But, Feurio ( – incidentally the most powerful and flexibly configurable AUDIO CD burning program – still incorporates a brand-ID function in its burning interface. I don’t know whether it’s still updated regularly as codes change and get added, but the last time I burned a regular red-book audio CD-R, it recognized my Fuji-branded blanks as Taiyo Yuden.

I live in Japan and sometimes buy “That’s” CD-Rs but I stopped because I could see what looks clearly like oxidization on the inside edge of the CDS. It looks like the metal is rusting and receding inside the plastic. This happened after about 6 months, but I haven’t had any trouble playing them yet..

Bryan J. Smith or anyone that knows, how can you tell if you have a “true” DVD-R drive? What do the false drives do differently?

Tony: Most likely all is lost. Google for data rescue services, and contact a few of those companies and see if they can help you.

If you’re doing a high volume of wedding videos, I’d suggest archiving the video yourself, so if they come back, you can give them a new copy from your collection.

I video weddings and have had a few problems with dvd discs these are printable discs.Clients have come back to me after a year or so to say their discs won’t play in any dvd player and I can’t extract the video from the dvd in my software programe,is all lost?


rainking: Nope, they won’t. They use a CD burner just like the rest of us do. Most likely, they bought the cheapest “usable” media available.

If you want to keep that CD, I suggest you rip it with cdparanoia and then burn a new copy.

I have another question, I don’t know if anyone will be able to answer it, but… I occasionally buy promotional CDs that are CDRs, are CDRs from record companies more likely to last longer then your typical burned CDR?

I’ve been a believer in TY media for a few years, buying exclusively from SuperMediaStore, and have never been disappointed.
I’ve been using -R, so many thanks for this article pointing out the superiority of +R. It’s unfortunate that TY +R is about twice the price of TY -R (46c/disc instead of 24) but that’s still cheap compared to losing data.

FWIW, I like my NEC 3550 drive, though lately I’ve had good luck with TSSTCorp (Toshiba/Samsung) drives as well; in particular the latter seem able to read very marginal, screwed up discs that nothing else can get data off of.
I had an old Sony DRU500 that went bad silently; a year later I discovered that hundreds of discs burned on it had degraded and were barely readable. I lost no important data but I had to find the ONE drive that could (barely) read the discs (it wasn’t the Sony) and make copies of several hundred DVDs.

Francis Ainley: I’d use whatever is compatible with your target stand alone player. Some won’t play any burns at all, some won’t play DVD-R, some won’t play DVD+R.

But yes, DVD video really isn’t video at all, it is still data, stored the same way all other data is stored. DVD+R will protect video DVDs better than DVD-R.

Do the advantages you describe of DVD+R over DVD-R also exist when burning DVD video disks? I have quite an old Panasonic DVD player that quite happily plays the DVD+R’s that I burn, so I was wondering whether the extra information that is included on DVD+R’s is also written to DVD video disks that have to be compatible with players going years back.

Gast: T@2 is no different then burning data; it is still using the media the same way.

I don’t see T@2 altering the life of the media in any way… it only reduces the storage space available.

Steve Bonds: Yeah, I knew I saw it somewhere.

Thanks for the pointer down a track I thought I’d already read. It led me to this article:

Which summarizes the meaning of the codes nicely:

4x – GDxxxxxx
8x – GGxxxxxx
16x- GHxxxxxx

4x – TSxxxxxx
8x – TGxxxxxx
16x- THxxxxxx

— Steve

Roberto: Brazil has a mold that it’s sole existence is to eat media. Pressed, burned, rewritable, CD, DVD: if it is a disc, this mold will ruin it.

I’ve heard stores about this from people from Brazil, or just getting back from Brazil. You can’t defeat the stuff.

Steve Bonds: Look at the burnable side, you’ll see a purple ring close to the center of the disc, in the burnable media.

It will have text on it; this exists to prevent fakes on the market (fakes don’t copy this technique often because it is supposed to be expensive and hard to copy).

Now, I don’t know if CD media has this, and I haven’t noticed this on other manufacturer’s DVDs.

This probably won’t help you in actually telling the difference unless you memorize what ID codes are for what media.

The CDFreaks FAQ I linked in the article I think does list what codes are for what media.

So how does the labeling systems where you can flip the disk over and “T@2” a label to the back side of the disk effect the life of the media?

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